Showing posts with label rose. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rose. Show all posts

Friday, May 24, 2013

A Precursor to the Best Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream

I´ve been quite happy using a facial serum after washing my face at night but sometimes it gets too messy when working around the eyes.  My face serum had so many different oils because I couldn´t decide which to keep and which to leave out; it turned out to be a mixture of argan, neem, avocado, wheat germ, almond, apricot kernel, coconut, rosehip, lavender and vitamin E.
Lately, I´ve been using the serum on most of my face but I tend to go for the lotions to dab around the eyes.  I think it´s time for me to try and whip up an eye cream.  This might be the precursor to an even better eye cream down the road and the journey starts here for me.

DIY Recipe:
  2 gr. Argan oil
  2 gr. Rosehip oil
  2 gr. Tamanu oil
  2 gr. Coconut oil
  2 gr. Avocado oil
  2 gr. Apricot Kernel oil
  3 gr. Emulsifying wax Cetearyl Alcohol/PEG-20 Stearate
16 gr. Rose water
  8 gr. Glycerin
  2 gr. Vitamin E
  2 gr. Hyaluronic Acid (1% concentration)
1/2 gr. Coenzyme Q10
1/2 gr. Collagen
   2 gr. Bulgarian Rose essential oil (0.3% concentration)
0.50 gr. Germall Plus


Everything seemed to go well except it stayed too wet.  So I decided to reheat the mixture in order to incorporate 5 gr. of melted beeswax in order to get a salve-like texture.


I´ll try this for a month or so to see what adjusting I would need to make to this recipe.  I did try some on the back of my hand; the cream needs massaging in but once it´s absorbed, the skin looks beautiful and healthy with a slight sheen.  There is a slight tacky sensation and it could be either the hyaluronic acid because it was viscous or it was the coenzyme Q10 because when I felt the yellow powder between my fingers, it felt a bit sticky.

Update:  In hindsight, I shouldn´t have added the beeswax; it´s too stiff to use around the eyes and I notice the granules of beeswax (I think).  What I´ve been doing is combining this with some oil serum on my palm before applying onto my face.  My skin feels nice after applying; just the form it´s in now isn´t up to par.  I´ll continue to play with the recipe once I finish this batch. 

Monday, May 13, 2013

Marseille Inspired Soap

In Spain, all of the Marseille soaps that I have encountered have a unique smell to them and I thought that´s what they´re supposed to smell like.  The scent is added to laundry detergents, softeners, dish washing soaps and even shower gels.
So when I got into soaping, I read up on the coveted Marseille soap.  It turns out, the true Marseille soap is unscented.  There are a couple of requirements though.  The oils used need to be only vegetable based and at least 72% of it needs to be olive oil.  I have also read that Mediterranean sea water was sometimes used and some artisans would add essential oils from local flowers and leaves found in the Southern region of France like lavender and azhar.  I´m convinced that´s how the characteristic aroma came to be in Spain.  When the Marseille soap was introduced into the Spanish market (I couldn´t find a more accurate time frame, but I am estimating it to be after WWII), it was already perfumed.  The soap industry continued to produce soaps with this perfume and slowly the aroma became ingrained into the population´s recognition for the Marseille soap.
Here I am, with some knowledge of soaping and some on the history of this soap, working out a recipe that could replicate the "Savon de Marseille" right here in the Canary Islands, Spain.



72% olive oil, infused with orange and lemon zests
10% coconut oil
13% palm oil
 5% sweet almond oil
NaOH
distilled water and sea salt (to imitate mild sea water)
rose essential oil
lavender essential oil
lime essential oil (to further accentuate the citrus zest)
pine essential oil (I figured there must be some pine in Southern France also; I used equal parts for each essential oil, fearing too much pine will make it smell like floor cleaners.)
olive leaf powder (to help it attain the green color I´ve seen in photos of this soap)


It started out greener but turned slightly light brown as it cured.  I am guessing the orange specks are from the zests not completely ground with the stick blender; I didn´t remove the zests from the olive oil.  The top photo was taken with sunlight and the bottom photo was taken in the kitchen with fluorescent lighting.

It has a wonderful citrus floral aroma and I am very happy to how close I got to the target scent.  It is a firm hard bar with creamy lather and the pH tested to be about 8.5


The olive leaves were ground superfine using an electric coffee grinder so it is not scratchy at all.  As a side note, the olive leaves are blessed and were used in Easter mass 2013 in Jaen, the capital city of Andalucia Province, the largest olive oil producing region in the world. No kidding. It´s really incredible to stand there and turn 360º to only see olive trees or their specks in the distance.